Touring in the area of HERACLEIA Touring in the area of HERACLEIA
We would like you to experience Turkey in a different way; away from the tourist centres, in a beautiful landscape full of harmony but at the same time attached to the daily village life of Kapıkırı on Lake Bafa. The lake and its surroundings qualify as a National Park and a nature reserve.
Our touring and cultural programme starts at our pension, Agora Pension, which is situated in the centre of the village of Kapıkırı the site of the ancient town of Herakleia. Archaeological excavations have barely encroached on this protected village.
You will be able to take part in many everyday activities of the local people, such as accompanying the fishermen on the lake, observing the bee culture and cotton industry, or you may prefer to just sit down with them in the evening watching the return of cattle and sheep from their pastures, after a day trecking in the mountains.
History
Heracleiai is part of Ionia because Lake Bafa is part of the sea, but historically it belongs to Caria. Situated on the slopes of Beş Parmak (Five Fingers Mountain), it was surrounded by the city walls which are quite well preserved. It was part of the Delian Confederacy, but was later captured by Mausolus in the fourth century BC. Later still in the time of Alexander the Great, the city walls were rebuilt. The prosperity of the city came from the sea, but when the River Maender silted up the area, the gulf became a lake and the city lost its importance. Heracleia-under-Latmos is famous for the figure of Endymion. The story tells that Endymion was loved by the Moon goddess, Selene, and slept eternally on Mount Patmos. He was offered by Zeus the chance to sleep for ever, deathless and ageless. Selene saw him sleeping and fell in love with him. She bore him fifty daughters.
The most important parts of the city ruins are the great city walls, the Temple of Athena, the Theatre, the Agora, the Council Chamber, the Temple of Endymion and the Byzantine Castle. Mount Latmos was always a holy mountain, and in the Byzantine period it was full of monasteries.
AGORA PENSION
How to get there
Approximately 54 km from Bodum airport
160 km from Izmir airport
On request we provide clients with a transfer service
Location
Situated next to Lake Bafa which is only 34 km from the Aegean Sea (Bay of Akbük), and 10 kms from the junction of the Bodrum/Izmir highway.
Weather
There are more than 300 sunny days each year and the climate is mild. You need extra heating for only three months of the year. In case of need, central heating is available and rooms are air conditioned in summer months.
Accommodation
7 double rooms (with en suite shower and toilet)
3 chalet-bungalow rooms sharing 2 toilets and 2 showers.
Restaurant
Seating indoors for 30 persons
outdoors for 30 persons
Bar
Turkish bath
Off-road parking
Internet Access
Excursions in the region
This is an ideal location from which to visit many historical sites, such as Didyma, Priene, Miletus, Labranda, Alinda, Myus, Halicarnassus, Euromos, Iassos and Ephesus.
The village
A small nomadic settlement of 300 people mostly engaged in organic agriculture (olives, cotton, citrus and other fruits and vegetables) and sheep and cattle.
National Park
The whole area is a protected National Park including the lake and the Latmos (Five Fingered) Mountains.
Trecking
The location is one of the best for trecking in the mountains. They are full of cave monasteries with frescoes from the Byzantine period. There are also prehistoric caves from the Neolithic period with cave paintings.
A Family Business
The pension is run by four friendly and homely members of the family. Mother is the cook, while the boys wait at table. Father takes care of everything else!
Home cooking – wholesome and using fresh, locally-grown produce
Fresh home-baked bread
Cold dishes using local olive oil
Local cheeses, honey and yoghurt
The family supports the idea of Protecting the Environment for Sustainable Tourism.
HERACLEIA, LATMOS AND BAFA LAKE : THE LAND OF GODS , SELENE AND ENDYMION
The village of Kapikiri is on lake Bafa between Izmir and Bodrum, close to the Aegean sea . The antique city of Heracleia is in the village and the earlier settlement of Latmos is within walking distance. They lie at the foot of the Latmos mountains, 1375 meters high, called Besparmak mountains in Turkish because they resemble the five fingers of a hand. The six kilometre long defence walls and sixty-five watch towers, still intact in most places, surround the cities and rise up along the edges of the mountains. These mountains are the result of an unusual geological formation, consisting of huge granite boulders. They look like bizarre surrealistic sculptures carved by the hand of nature over millions of years. With a little imagination, one can see a ferocious eagle standing on its prey or the sun, wind and rain beaten face of a million year old woman. Endless inspiration for an artistic spirit! There are hundreds of natural caves some of which were used by pre-historic people going back 8-9 000 years. Their paintings are still clearly visible. The linear figures of men and women dancing, possibly praying to Latmos gods and following wedding processions as well as the figures of animals decorate the cave walls. Some of these pre-historic paintings are unparalleled in the world. These caves were first discovered in 1994 and more than one hundred paintings have been recorded until now. The discoveries have caused a sensation in the field of archaeology. Still in other caves, one can see the colourful frescoes made by early Christians and friars who used the caves as refuge from persecution and for prayer. Over the years, an archaeological team headed by Anneliese Peschlow, undoubtedly the expert on Latmos and Heracleia, has been making many other similar discoveries, the most recent being the discovery of Hittite inscriptions which are unique in this part of Anatolia. The tales of the two cities of Heracleia and Latmos go back at least 3000 years . Latmos, the earlier city and Heracleia, the later city, show the cultural and architectural traces of different ancient civilisations: Carian, Hellenic, Roman and Byzantine. The present village of Kapikiri is itself a traditional Turkish village. One could even speculate that some of these villagers, with their distinctive physical features, may be the descendants of the ancient peoples. Since Heracleia is located in the village of Kapikiri and along the lake, the whole area is officially protected as a cultural and historical heritage. It is forbidden to construct any new buildings or to make changes to the old village houses. Also the lake Bafa and its surroundings, a permanent or temporary home for thousands of birds such as pelicans, flamingos, hawks, partridges, geese, storks and others, is protected by law as a natural reserve. In fact, over 250 species of birds have been recorded in the region. There are also wild pigs, rabbits, jackals and fox in the mountains. Due to strict laws, the area has so far been completely spared from large scale touristic developments and thousands of summer residences which have unfortunately spoiled certain coastal areas in Turkey and elsewhere in the world. It is an ideal spot for anyone who seeks tranquillity, nature, history and a close contact with traditional Turkish village customs and ways of living. In fact, it provides an ideal refuge, like it did for pre-historic cave people and early Christians, from the hustle and bustle of large scale touristic developments and stresses of modern life. The village of Kapikiri has only a few small family run pensions and restaurants. No mass tourism, shopping centres, souvenir shops, discos or all night entertainment.
Long ago, the lake Bafa was a connected to the sea. By the water, one can still see the remains of the ancient harbour. Over time, silts washed down the mountains by the old Meanders river (today's Menderes Nehri) have cut off the connection. There are five small islands on the lake and no one but a few goats and cows live on them. They are covered with olive trees and ancient ruins, particularly the Byzantine monasteries. Around the lake, there are numerous isolated beaches ideal for a picnic and swimming. Being very shallow, they are safe for children.
Finally, the awe inspiring and mysterious Latmos mountains have been an endless source of mythologies and stories for thousands of years. It is truly the “land of myths and fairy tales” (masallar diyari). Some people, upon first sight describe it as Tolkien. All historical studies show that these mountains have been considered sacred for thousands of years and can easily be compared to Mount Olympus in Greece . Gods and goddesses, in human and none human form, have lived and reigned over man and nature in these mountains. As the dark clouds slowly descend from the Mount Latmos, the thunder roars and echoes among the boulders and as lightning hits the mountain peaks, one can even today feel that gods must still be living up there somewhere. One monk, Paulos, the Young, famous in many parts of this part of the world, established the Stylos monastery here around 1000 AD However, the most well-known story is the one about Selene, the lunar goddess, and Endymion, the shepherd. Endymion and Selene fall in love with each other. A love between a goddess and a human being! She embraces him warmly in her “light' and bears him fifty daughters. Zeus, the father of all gods, grants Endymion's wish for eternal life by putting him to deathless and ageless sleep. The early Christians integrated this myth pre-dating Christianity into their beliefs and rituals, thus sanctifying Endymion. It is almost certain that Endymion himself had been a local god of Mount Latmos well before the arrival of the Greek gods in this region who dethroned him. Endymion's shrine, surrounded by olive trees hundreds of years old, is located in the village on a hill and overlooks the lake, with the Latmos mountains in behind . If you happen to be at Kapikiri when there is moon, especially full moon, you will agree that this myth cold not have originated anywhere else but here. The Latmos mountains, lake Bafa and Endymion's shrine almost burn in Selene's light. Undoubtedly the most romantic and melancholic sight anywhere in Turkey ! Part of the myth is that the lid of Endymion's grave was left open so that Selene could always see and caress him and that Endymion cried for her. Throughout the ages, people claimed that they heard a sad humming sound from the shrine. If you can shake yourself off modern cynicism and other beliefs for a moment, you may even hear same the humming today as the wind whistles down the mountains and softly caresses the silvery olive branches. This myth has been a source of inspiration for many poets and painters in Europe for several centuries.